At Milan Fashion Week,  Autumn/Winter 2022 rewrote the rules of officewear

At Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2022 rewrote the rules of officewear

You heard it here first: Ryan Gosling is now the face of Gucci Reading At Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2022 rewrote the rules of officewear 3 minutes Next 5 Tips for Selecting the very best Organization Suit

A year ago Boss staged a fashion show at Milan’s Kennedy Sports Centre to celebrate and showcase the launch of its second partnership with heritage American sports brand Russell Athletic, which was one of the initial steps in its new brand direction. Next, the likes of Kendall Jenner, Future and Hailey Bieber were unveiled as ambassadors, while Boss also presented a new logo, a new camel-black-white colourway used across the entirety of its collections, and even a capsule collection with TikTok superstar Khaby Lame. In tune with its hopes to tap a younger audience, Boss' vision has been contemporary through and through for the best part of the year.

Last night, however, it seemingly returned to a more traditional way of showing its Autumn/Winter 2022 collection and staged a mega fashion show (1,000 guests) at Milan's Velodromo Vigorelli. It was the sort of thing you'd have expected to have taken place in the Nineties heyday of catwalk calamity, and you'd be forgiven for thinking we'd been teleported 20 years back. Indeed the collection itself took archival pieces from Boss collections past, and gave them a more modern spin – something old, something new – in turn rewriting what it means to wear traditional menswear (which was all instantly shoppable on TikTok for the first time ever).

The collection, which was the brainchild of Boss' new senior vice president creative director Marco Falcioni, was centred around the idea of deconstructed power dressing, and was aptly titled “Soft Power.” Naomi Campbell, who fronts the brand's latest campaign, opened the show, decked in an oversized, charcoal suit and ankle-grazing black overcoat that billowed behind her. Falcioni had looked to archival campaigns from the 1990s, a time when Boss suits dominated offices the world over, and thought to reinvent those iconic pieces. 

“Our archive is the beating heart of the brand,” Falcioni explains. “How can we encapture the empowering mood of these for a new generation?” The entire collection, Campbell's look included, was a new take on boardroom wear. Future, who closed the show, wore a louche and loose jacket that featured overlapping lapels and matching trousers, worn over an untucked black shirt, while elsewhere an icy grey double-breasted suit was purposefully unstructured and billowing round the waist. In another instance, a peak-lapelled grey DB was worn gracefully over a checkerboard waistcoat, which in turn was worn over an oversized and again untucked crisp white shirt. Back to the office this September? This is how it's done, the Boss way. “Suiting that is less of an inflexible shield around the wearer, and is more of an expression of individuality, freedom and self-expression” was the key focus for the brand, explains Falcioni.

Suits aside, there were also those signature Boss pieces in the 66-look collection, which was split equally between men's and women's fits. Chunky roll-neck knits were worn under nylon, padded coach jackets, boxing legend Anthony Joshua strutted onto the catwalk in a camel roll-neck knit and tapered slacks, whole a chocolate brown and beige bomber jacket was worn loosely and came scrawled with Boss branding. “This collection is all about dressing like a Boss, whatever that means for you," Falcioni remarks. 

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